Drilling into brick sounds like one of those projects that should require a hard hat, a mysterious contractor named “Mike,” and at least three trips to the hardware store. Good news: you can usually do it yourself. Better news: once you understand the right drill, the right bit, and the right anchor, the job becomes much less dramatic than your wall would have you believe.
Whether you are mounting a shelf, hanging outdoor lights, installing a security camera, or finally giving that heavy mirror a home that is not “leaning suspiciously against the hallway wall,” learning how to drill into brick is a core DIY skill. Brick is strong, attractive, and long-lasting, but it is not the same as drywall or wood. You cannot just grab any old drill bit and hope for the best. That path leads to dull bits, cracked masonry, crooked holes, and language your neighbors may pretend not to hear.
This guide walks you through the tools, safety steps, drilling technique, anchor choices, troubleshooting tips, and real-world lessons that make the job cleaner, safer, and more successful.
Can You Drill Into Brick?
Yes, you can drill into brick, and in many home projects, brick is a better fastening surface than drywall. The key is using masonry-rated tools and drilling with control. Brick is dense and brittle at the same time. That means it can hold weight well when the fastener is chosen properly, but it can also chip, crack, or crumble if you force the drill or use the wrong anchor.
The basic formula is simple: mark the spot, use a masonry drill bit, start slowly, keep the drill straight, drill to the right depth, clean the hole, insert the proper anchor, and drive the screw carefully. The details matter, but the process is not complicated.
Tools and Materials You Need
Before you make the wall look like a science experiment, gather everything first. A brick drilling project goes much smoother when you are not holding a half-drilled hole while searching for painter’s tape with one dusty hand.
Essential tools
- Hammer drill or rotary hammer drill
- Carbide-tipped masonry drill bit
- Wall anchors, masonry screws, sleeve anchors, or other fasteners suited to the load
- Tape measure
- Pencil, marker, or painter’s tape
- Level
- Vacuum, compressed air, or hand blower for dust removal
- Screwdriver bit or nut driver
- Safety glasses
- Dust mask or respirator
- Hearing protection
Optional but helpful tools
- Depth stop or masking tape for marking drill depth
- Stud finder with live-wire detection
- Masonry brush for cleaning holes
- Shop vacuum with a dust collection attachment
- Scrap cardboard or sticky note to catch falling dust indoors
Hammer Drill vs. Regular Drill: Which One Should You Use?
A regular drill can sometimes make a small hole in softer brick, but it is not the best tool for the job. A hammer drill is usually the better choice because it rotates while adding a rapid hammering action. That little forward punch helps the masonry bit bite into brick instead of simply polishing the surface like a very frustrated toothbrush.
For small holes, such as mounting a lightweight picture hook or house number, a standard drill with a quality masonry bit may work if the brick is not too hard. For larger holes, repeated holes, exterior brick, or heavier installations, use a hammer drill. For very hard masonry or large-diameter holes, a rotary hammer drill may be the more efficient option.
Choose the Right Masonry Drill Bit
The drill bit matters as much as the drill. For brick, use a carbide-tipped masonry bit. These bits are designed to grind and chip through masonry materials such as brick, block, stone, and concrete. Wood bits and metal bits are not built for this. They may overheat, dull quickly, wander across the brick face, or fail before the hole is deep enough.
Match the drill bit diameter to the anchor or screw manufacturer’s instructions. This is not a “close enough” moment. If the hole is too small, the anchor may not fit or could crack the brick when forced. If the hole is too large, the anchor may spin, loosen, or pull out. For masonry screws, the required bit size is often very specific, so check the package before drilling.
Should You Drill Into Brick or Mortar?
This is one of the most common questions, and the answer depends on the project. For many medium and heavy loads, drilling into the brick itself gives better holding strength because brick is usually stronger than mortar. That makes brick a good choice for shelves, brackets, hose reels, and hardware that needs a firm bite.
However, mortar can be the smarter option in some cases. If the brick is old, soft, cracked, spalling, or historically significant, drilling into mortar may reduce the risk of damaging the brick face. Mortar is also easier to repair later. If you remove a fastener, patching mortar usually looks less noticeable than patching a hole in the middle of a brick.
Here is the practical rule: for stronger holding power, drill into sound brick; for easier repair or fragile old masonry, consider drilling into mortar. When mounting something heavy, expensive, or safety-related, follow the fastener instructions and consider asking a masonry professional.
Safety First: Brick Dust Is Not Confetti
Drilling into brick creates dust, and masonry dust can contain fine particles you do not want in your lungs. Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from chips and dust. Use a dust mask or respirator, especially indoors or when drilling multiple holes. Hearing protection is also smart because hammer drills are not exactly whisper machines.
Before drilling, check for hidden electrical wires, plumbing, gas lines, and other utilities. This is especially important near outlets, light fixtures, exterior faucets, kitchens, bathrooms, and utility areas. A wall scanner with live-wire detection can help, but it is not magic. If the drilling location seems risky, stop and investigate before turning your wall into a surprise fountain.
How To Drill Into Brick Step by Step
Step 1: Plan the location
Hold your item against the wall and decide exactly where it should go. Use a level to make sure shelves, brackets, or fixtures are straight. Mark the hole locations with a pencil, marker, or painter’s tape. Painter’s tape is useful because it gives the bit a little traction and makes the mark easier to see on dark or textured brick.
Step 2: Choose the anchor
The anchor must match the weight and purpose of the item. Plastic masonry anchors may be fine for lightweight decor. Masonry screws work well for many medium-duty projects. Sleeve anchors, wedge anchors, or specialty masonry fasteners may be needed for heavier loads. Outdoor projects also need corrosion-resistant fasteners, especially in wet or coastal areas.
Step 3: Select the right bit size
Check the anchor packaging for the recommended drill bit diameter and hole depth. Do not guess. The holding power of an anchor depends on the hole being the correct size. If you are using masonry screws, the bit is often matched very precisely to the screw diameter.
Step 4: Mark the drilling depth
Use the drill’s depth stop if it has one. If not, wrap masking tape around the bit at the target depth. For many masonry anchors, the hole should be slightly deeper than the anchor embedment so dust and debris have somewhere to go. A common approach is drilling about 1/4 inch deeper than the anchor embedment, though you should always follow the fastener manufacturer’s instructions.
Step 5: Start slowly
Place the tip of the masonry bit on your mark. Hold the drill perpendicular to the wall, not tilted up, down, or sideways. Start at a low speed without pushing too hard. Let the bit create a shallow starter hole. This prevents the bit from skating across the brick surface and leaving a crescent-shaped scratch that says, “I was confident for three seconds.”
Step 6: Increase speed and keep steady pressure
Once the bit has seated, increase speed and apply steady pressure. If you are using a hammer drill, let the tool do the work. Do not lean your entire body into it. Too much pressure can overheat the bit, enlarge the hole, or crack the brick. Pull the bit out occasionally to clear dust from the flutes and reduce heat.
Step 7: Stop at the correct depth
Stop drilling when you reach the tape mark or depth stop. Avoid drilling deeper than needed, especially in brick veneer or older masonry. Extra depth is sometimes necessary for dust clearance, but random over-drilling weakens the area and may reduce fastener performance.
Step 8: Clean the hole
This step is easy to skip and easy to regret. Dust left in the hole can prevent anchors from seating properly. Use a vacuum, blower, compressed air, or masonry brush to remove debris. For indoor work, hold a vacuum nozzle near the hole while drilling or cleaning. Your floors, lungs, and future self will appreciate the effort.
Step 9: Insert the anchor
Push or tap the anchor into the hole according to the instructions. It should fit snugly without heroic force. If the anchor will not go in, do not pound it like you are settling a family argument. Check whether the hole is too small, too dusty, or not deep enough.
Step 10: Drive the screw or fastener
Drive the screw slowly and stop when it is snug. Do not overtighten. Overdriving can strip the anchor, crack the brick, or pull the anchor loose. For brackets and fixtures, tighten evenly and check that the item sits flat against the wall.
Best Anchors for Brick
The best anchor depends on the load, brick condition, and whether the installation is indoors or outdoors.
Plastic masonry anchors
These are good for lightweight items such as small signs, decorative pieces, cable clips, and light picture frames. They are affordable and easy to install, but they are not ideal for heavy shelves or load-bearing hardware.
Masonry screws
Masonry screws are popular for many DIY jobs because they cut threads into the drilled hole. They require the correct pilot hole size and depth. They are useful for brackets, furring strips, electrical boxes, and medium-duty mounting tasks.
Sleeve anchors
Sleeve anchors expand inside the hole and can provide strong holding power in solid masonry. They are often used for heavier fixtures, but they must be installed carefully because expansion pressure can damage weak or brittle brick.
Lag shields
Lag shields are used with lag screws and can work well in masonry when properly sized. They are common for heavier mounting projects, though they require a larger hole than many smaller anchors.
Common Mistakes When Drilling Into Brick
Using the wrong drill bit
A wood bit is not a masonry bit wearing casual clothes. Use a carbide-tipped masonry bit designed for brick.
Skipping safety gear
Brick chips and dust are not harmless. Wear eye protection and a dust mask or respirator, especially when drilling indoors.
Drilling too fast at the beginning
Starting at high speed can cause the bit to wander. Begin slowly until the hole is established.
Forcing the drill
Hard pressure does not equal better drilling. Let the hammer action and masonry bit do the work.
Not cleaning the hole
Dust inside the hole can stop the anchor from seating correctly. Clean the hole before inserting the anchor.
Overtightening the screw
Once the fastener is snug, stop. Overtightening can crack brick or ruin the anchor’s grip.
How To Drill Into Brick Without Cracking It
To reduce the chance of cracking brick, use a sharp masonry bit, drill straight, start slowly, avoid excessive pressure, and match the anchor to the job. Stay away from edges when possible because brick is more likely to crack near corners and ends. If you need to drill near an edge, use a smaller anchor or consult the fastener instructions for minimum edge distance.
Older brick deserves extra patience. If the surface is powdery, cracked, or flaking, test in a hidden area first. You may find that the mortar joint is a better place to drill, especially for lighter loads. For heavy objects on old brick, avoid expansion anchors unless you are sure the brick can handle the pressure.
Indoor vs. Outdoor Brick Drilling
Indoor brick drilling is usually about dust control and clean placement. Cover nearby furniture, use a vacuum, and drill slowly to reduce mess. A sticky note folded under the hole can catch some dust, although a shop vacuum works better.
Outdoor brick drilling adds weather concerns. Use exterior-rated anchors and corrosion-resistant screws. Stainless steel, coated masonry screws, or galvanized fasteners may be appropriate depending on the project. If you drill into exterior brick, consider sealing around the fastener when needed to reduce water intrusion, especially around fixtures, cameras, signs, or hose holders.
Troubleshooting: What If Something Goes Wrong?
The drill bit will not bite
Check that you are using a masonry bit and hammer mode. Start slower, hold the drill steady, and make sure the bit is sharp. Very hard brick may require a better bit or rotary hammer.
The hole is too large
Use a larger anchor if appropriate, or move the hole slightly and drill again. Do not rely on a loose anchor for anything heavy.
The anchor spins
The hole may be oversized or dusty. Remove the anchor, clean the hole, and try a properly sized replacement. If the hole is damaged, relocate the fastener.
The brick chips around the hole
Some surface chipping is common, especially on textured brick. To reduce it, start slowly, avoid hammer mode until the starter hole is established if your drill allows it, and keep the drill straight.
The screw stops before it is seated
The hole may not be deep enough, or dust may be packed at the bottom. Remove the screw, clean the hole, and confirm the depth before trying again.
Real-World Experience: Lessons From Drilling Into Brick
The first thing you learn when drilling into brick is that confidence is good, but patience is better. A lot of beginners make the same mistake: they treat brick like wood with a tougher personality. They squeeze the trigger all the way, push hard, and expect the drill to zip through. Instead, the bit skates, the mark disappears under dust, and the hole ends up slightly off-center. Starting slowly feels less exciting, but it is the secret handshake of masonry drilling.
Another experience worth remembering is that not all bricks behave the same. One brick wall may drill beautifully, producing a neat red powder and a clean hole. Another may feel like it was forged in a volcano by an angry committee. Older brick can be surprisingly soft, while some newer brick can be extremely hard. That is why a sharp masonry bit matters. If the bit is dull, you will work twice as hard and still get a messy result. When a bit starts squealing, smoking, or taking forever, it may not be your technique. It may simply be time to replace the bit.
Dust management is also one of those things that sounds minor until you drill indoors. Brick dust travels. It lands on trim, shelves, baseboards, and somehow the coffee mug you were sure was on the other side of the room. Holding a vacuum nozzle near the bit while drilling makes a huge difference. If you are working alone, tape a small envelope or folded paper under the hole to catch falling dust, then vacuum afterward. It is not glamorous, but neither is wiping red powder off your curtains.
One practical lesson from hanging shelves and brackets is to mark every hole before drilling the first one, then recheck the level. Brick joints and textured surfaces can trick your eye. If you drill one hole, mount the bracket, and then discover the second hole mark is slightly off, the wall will not offer sympathy. Use the actual bracket as a template when possible. Mark the center of each hole clearly. For multiple holes, drill one starter hole, check alignment again, and then continue.
Anchor choice is another area where experience saves headaches. Lightweight decor does not need a monster anchor. Heavy shelves should not depend on tiny plastic plugs. Outdoor fixtures should not use fasteners that rust after one rainy season. The best anchor is not always the biggest one; it is the one designed for that load, that wall, and that environment.
Finally, the most satisfying part of drilling into brick is realizing it is not mysterious. It is methodical. The wall may look tough, but the process is straightforward: plan, protect yourself, drill correctly, clean the hole, and fasten carefully. Do that, and your shelf, sign, camera, or planter will sit solidly in place while you enjoy the quiet pride of someone who has successfully argued with a brick wall and won.
Conclusion
Learning how to drill into brick is a valuable skill for homeowners, renters with permission, and DIY fans who want to mount things securely without turning the wall into modern art. The key is preparation. Use a hammer drill when possible, choose a carbide-tipped masonry bit, match the hole size to the anchor, drill slowly at first, clean out the dust, and tighten the fastener with care.
Brick is strong, but it rewards patience. With the right tools and a steady hand, you can hang shelves, lights, brackets, house numbers, planters, and outdoor fixtures with confidence. Respect the material, protect your eyes and lungs, and remember: the drill should do the work. You are just there to guide it, not wrestle the wall into submission.
